This is totally delicious, much more than you’d think. I made this tonight, because of a constellation of ingredients in my fridge that inspired me to try. The trick with the egg and yoghurt really works for keeping the soup smooth.
2 tbsp olive oil
2 large leeks
1/2 tsp Turkish chilli flakes (pul biber) or paprika
1/2 tsp dried miint
1 egg yolk
1 tsp plain flour
150ml greek yoghurt
250ml vegetable or chicken stock
20g/person caramelised butter
salt and pepper
Chop the leeks: slice them in half lengthways, rinse and slice finely.
Heat the olive oil and butter together until the butter starts to foam, and then fry the leeks over a low heat for ten minutes.
Add the chilli and dried mint, cover and continue to cook for a further 15 to 20 minutes, checking regularly to ensure that the leeks don’t stick or burn.
Meanwhile, mix the egg yolk with the flour, to a smooth paste, and then beat in the yoghurt and stock. I used a soup wand to do this.
When the leeks are cooked, sweet and soft, pour on the yoghurt and stock, and heat gently, do not allow to boil. Keep stirring as the soup thickens. Add salt and pepper to taste.
To make browned butter, put around 20g per person in a small saucepan, melt the butter over a low heat. The white milk solids will sink to the bottom. Keep cooking until the milk solids start to turn a gentle brown. Remove from the heat.
Pour a little browned butter into each bowl before serving.
This is a twist on a classic combination, created by substituting ingredients from the fridge. We have storms this week, with a high risk of no food deliveries onto the island, and I didn’t want to use the last of the milk to make this soup, so I used Greek yogurt instead.
1 large leek
1 potato, diced
1/2 an onion, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic (optional)
300 ml hot marigold stock
200 ml yogurt
Salt and pepper
1 tbsp dry sherry
Clean the leek, and chop finely; start by cutting lengthways into 4, then slicing.
In a largish pan, melt the butter, and add the leek, onion, potato and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, and cook on a very low heat for around 10 minutes or more.
Add the yoghurt and the stock, and bring back to a simmer. Simmer for a further 15 to 20 minutes, so that the vegetables are very soft.
Use a soup wand or blender to make a very smooth soup. Add the sherry, and check the seasoning.
You could garnish with chopped herbs, but it was delicious without.
It is raining this morning, so I am looking out the soup recipes.
3 medium to large onions, peeled and thinly sliced into rings.
2 tbsp olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1/2 tsp brown sugar
1.2 litres of hot stock
300ml white wine
2 tbsp brandy
salt and pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large clove of garlic, crushed
250g Emmental cheese, grated.
Preheat the oven to 180C gas 4
Mix 1 tbsp olive oil with one clove of crushed garlic, and put into an oven-proof tray or baking sheet.
Slice the baguette into thin slanting slices, and mix with the olive oil and garlic.
Bake for 20 minutes.
In a large saucepan or casserole dish, on a high heat, melt 50g of butter with 2 tbsp of olive oil, and when this is very hot, add the onions, garlic and sugar, and keep turning and stirring until the onions are getting quite dark around the edges.
Reduce the heat right down, and cook very slowly for another 30 minutes or so.
Pour in the stock and wine, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, and then cook very gently for about an hour. Don’t cover with a lid.
Just before serving, put the grill on.
Transfer the soup into a tureen or serving bowls. Put the toasted baguette onto the soup, cover with the grated cheese and put everything under the grill until the cheese is melted and bubbling.
Garnish with chopped parsley and serve. The bowls will be very hot, so be careful.
This has its roots in Delia Smith’s vegetarian cook book. Some of the recipes have lasted with me, and it is a book I dip back to regularly. It is a good way to use all of the celery that gets left from other recipes that only use one or two stalks.
450g approx of celery stalks
550g approx of celeriac, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled
1.5 litres of marigold stock
salt and pepper
creme fraiche or greek yoghurt, chopped herbs to serve.
Preheat the oven to 140C gas mark 1
Use a peeler or sharp knife to remove any stringy sections from the outside of the celery stalks. Cut into large chunks.
Peel and chop the celeriac, and cut the onion into large wedges.
Put all of the ingredients into a large casserole dish with the stock, bayleaves, salt and pepper. Bring it to a simmer on the hob, cover, and transfer to the oven.
Leave to cook in the oven for three hours.
Remove the bayleaves, and blend using a soup wand,
Serve with a swirl of creme fraiche, and chopped herbs. Parsley or chopped celery leaves work well, so do chive flowers, the colour contrast is so beautiful.
1/4 to 1/2 head of celeriac, peeled and chopped into small dice
20 cloves of garlic, peeled
1 tsp ground cumin
500g lamb or beef, in 2cm squares
1 can of cannellini beans
7 cardamom pods, crushed
1/2 tsp turmeric
2 tbsp tomato puree
1 tsp date syrup or brown sugar
250g small firm potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes
Salt and pepper
Lemon wedges and chopped coriander, to serve
Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion and celeriac on a medium heat for fie minutes, until the onion starts to brown.
Add the garlic and cumin and cook for another couple of minutes before taking off the heat and setting to one side
Put the meat in the water in a large pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook for ten minutes, skimming any foam from the surface.
Add the onions, celeriac, beans, cardamom, turmeric, tomato puree and sugar. Bring to the boil, and then simmer for an hour.
Add the potatoes to the soup season with 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper. Bring back to the boil and simmer for a further 20 minutes until the potatoes are cooked and tender. You may need to add water and stir from time to time to prevent the soup from sticking.
Serve the soup with a squeeze of lemon and some chopped coriander leaves.
I had a guest staying last week, and as well as being very busy at work, I also ended up trying to cook new dishes. I would add, she is a good cook and a fantastic guest who took her turn at cooking too. I will see if I can pinch one of her recipes.
200g pearl barley
1.6 litres of water
2 onions, finely chopped
a handful of mint, finely chopped
2 eggs, beaten
3 Spring onions and mint or other fresh herbs, finely chopped (I used a little lovage)
Soak the barley in the cold water overnight. Add a good pinch of salt, bring to the boil and cook for around 20 minutes, until the barley is tender.
Meanwhile, saute the onion and the mint in butter until very soft, around 15 minutes. Add the mixture to the barley and water.
Whisk the eggs into the yoghurt. Add in a large spoonful of the soup, and keep whisking, adding soup until the yoghurt and egg mixture is hot. Add the mixture back into the soup, whisking it in.
Reheat, but do not boil the soup.
Garnish with sliced spring onions and herbs. I had to experiment – the first version was a bit odd, with the barley a bit al dente – the soaking is important.
I’ve bought a few new cookbooks this year, the theme seems to be about the middle east. This book of Persian recipes is called ‘Nightingales and Roses’ by Maryam Sinaiee. Hopelessly romantic title, but then again, I have a photograph of two Tehrani police officers outside our gate in northern Tehran, posing for my mother with bunches of roses and honeysuckle.
I never had this soup, though, until today. It is easy and delicious. The recipe makes a large quantity, it says it serves four but only if you have two helpings each. It takes about an hour and a half to make.
4 tbsp olive oil
3 medium onions, chopped finely
1 tbsp turmeric
1.5 litres boiling water
50g arborio rice
1 can of chickpeas, drained
1 pack of coriander leaf, chopped (around 40g)
1 pack of flat leaf parsley, chopped (around 40g)
1 tbsp dried summer savory (or substitute a mixture of thyme and mint)
300g spinach, chopped
1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp black pepper, ground
250ml greek yoghurt or sour cream or creme fraiche
Black pepper to garnish
Heat the oil in a large pan with a lid. When it is hot, add the chopped onions, and fry for 10-15 minutes until the onions are brown. Stir in the turmeric and mix. Set aside a tablespoonful of fried onions for a garnish at the end.
Add the water and rice to the rest of the fried onions, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 30 minutes.
Add the chickpeas, herbs and spinach, bring to the boil and then simmer for 40 minutes.
Add the salt and pepper to taste, then beat in the yoghurt. Don’t boil once the yoghurt is added, because it will curdle.
Garnish with extra yoghurt, the fried onions, and a grating of black pepper.
For a vegan version, leave out the yoghurt, or use coconut yoghurt. For a meaty version, use beef stock instead of water and add small meatballs.
Last weekend, a friend and I dug up the last of last year’s carrots, where they had overwintered in the ground. I froze some and I also made this soup. I kind of made it up as I went along, using some ingredients that I already had.
My brother-in-law, John, served this to us one evening. It was only the second time we met and the soup was one of the many highlights of the evening. The taste recalls the evening around 25 years ago.
1 large white onion
3 tbsp olive oil or butter
1 tsp dried dill
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1 tbsp paprika
1/4 tsp cayenne
1 pint of stock
1 tsp miso (you can substitute marmite if no miso available)
150ml sour cream
3 tsp lemon juice
Finely chop the onion and fry gently in the oil, with 1/2 tsp salt
Chop the mushrooms and add to the pan
Add the dill, thyme, paprika and cayenne, and cover. Cook slowly for around 7 minutes.
Add the stock and miso and bring to a simmer for three minutes.
Liquidise, and add the sour cream and lemon juice.