I’m not sure if this is a soup or a stew. It is very sweet from the gently stewed garlic and lamb, just the most delicious comfort food. I found it in ‘Jerusalem’ by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi
- 1 olive oil
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 1/4 to 1/2 head of celeriac, peeled and chopped into small dice
- 20 cloves of garlic, peeled
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 500g lamb or beef, in 2cm squares
- 1.75L water
- 1 can of cannellini beans
- 7 cardamom pods, crushed
- 1/2 tsp turmeric
- 2 tbsp tomato puree
- 1 tsp date syrup or brown sugar
- 250g small firm potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes
- Salt and pepper
- Lemon wedges and chopped coriander, to serve
- Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion and celeriac on a medium heat for fie minutes, until the onion starts to brown.
- Add the garlic and cumin and cook for another couple of minutes before taking off the heat and setting to one side
- Put the meat in the water in a large pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook for ten minutes, skimming any foam from the surface.
- Add the onions, celeriac, beans, cardamom, turmeric, tomato puree and sugar. Bring to the boil, and then simmer for an hour.
- Add the potatoes to the soup season with 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp black pepper. Bring back to the boil and simmer for a further 20 minutes until the potatoes are cooked and tender. You may need to add water and stir from time to time to prevent the soup from sticking.
- Serve the soup with a squeeze of lemon and some chopped coriander leaves.
I’ve bought a few new cookbooks this year, the theme seems to be about the middle east. This book of Persian recipes is called ‘Nightingales and Roses’ by Maryam Sinaiee. Hopelessly romantic title, but then again, I have a photograph of two Tehrani police officers outside our gate in northern Tehran, posing for my mother with bunches of roses and honeysuckle.
I never had this soup, though, until today. It is easy and delicious. The recipe makes a large quantity, it says it serves four but only if you have two helpings each. It takes about an hour and a half to make.
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 3 medium onions, chopped finely
- 1 tbsp turmeric
- 1.5 litres boiling water
- 50g arborio rice
- 1 can of chickpeas, drained
- 1 pack of coriander leaf, chopped (around 40g)
- 1 pack of flat leaf parsley, chopped (around 40g)
- 1 tbsp dried summer savory (or substitute a mixture of thyme and mint)
- 300g spinach, chopped
- 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp black pepper, ground
- 250ml greek yoghurt or sour cream or creme fraiche
- Black pepper to garnish
- Heat the oil in a large pan with a lid. When it is hot, add the chopped onions, and fry for 10-15 minutes until the onions are brown. Stir in the turmeric and mix. Set aside a tablespoonful of fried onions for a garnish at the end.
- Add the water and rice to the rest of the fried onions, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 30 minutes.
- Add the chickpeas, herbs and spinach, bring to the boil and then simmer for 40 minutes.
- Add the salt and pepper to taste, then beat in the yoghurt. Don’t boil once the yoghurt is added, because it will curdle.
- Garnish with extra yoghurt, the fried onions, and a grating of black pepper.
For a vegan version, leave out the yoghurt, or use coconut yoghurt. For a meaty version, use beef stock instead of water and add small meatballs.
Last weekend, a friend and I dug up the last of last year’s carrots, where they had overwintered in the ground. I froze some and I also made this soup. I kind of made it up as I went along, using some ingredients that I already had.
- 1 red onion, chopped
- 1 red chilli pepper, finely chopped
- olive oil
- 1/2 tsp cumin
- 400g approx chopped carrots
- 500ml vegetable stock (or other stock)
- 150ml sour cream
- Juice of half a lime
- salt and pepper
- A handful of fresh coriander leaves
- A pinch of chipotle smoked pepper (from Seasoned Pioneers)
- In a saucepan, fry the chilli and the onion slowly in the olive oil, until the onion is softening.
- Add the cumin and the carrots, and cook for another five minutes or so.
- Add the stock, and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes.
- Take of the heat, and add the sour cream, lime juice, salt, pepper, chipotle pepper and coriander leaves.
- Use a soup wand to make a smooth creamy soup. Add a bit of stock or water if the soup is too thick.
Serve with brown toast.
My brother-in-law, John, served this to us one evening. It was only the second time we met and the soup was one of the many highlights of the evening. The taste recalls the evening around 25 years ago.
- 1 large white onion
- 3 tbsp olive oil or butter
- 400g mushrooms
- 1 tsp dried dill
- 1/2 tsp dried thyme
- 1 tbsp paprika
- 1/4 tsp cayenne
- 1 pint of stock
- 1 tsp miso (you can substitute marmite if no miso available)
- 150ml sour cream
- 3 tsp lemon juice
- Finely chop the onion and fry gently in the oil, with 1/2 tsp salt
- Chop the mushrooms and add to the pan
- Add the dill, thyme, paprika and cayenne, and cover. Cook slowly for around 7 minutes.
- Add the stock and miso and bring to a simmer for three minutes.
- Liquidise, and add the sour cream and lemon juice.
- Reheat without bringing to the boil.
Serve with brown bread.
This is a classic soup – so classic that I couldn’t find it in any recipe book. Apparently we are to learn how to make it as a hereditary skill. This recipe makes a huge vat of soup, but I don’t see how you could make much less.
- 1 large ham bone, ham hock, or left-over cooked ham
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 3 cloves of garlic, chopped
- 3 medium carrots, chopped into small chunks
- 3 stalks of celery, finely chopped
- 3 potatoes, diced (optional)
- 500g bag of yellow or green split peas – rinse the peas.
- 1.5 litres of stock (ham stock, chicken stock or vegetable stock)
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 level tsp smoked paprika
- olive oil
- salt and pepper to taste
- In a large soup pan, fry the chopped onions and celery gently in the olive oil, until soft. Add the garlic and cook for a minute or two longer
- Add the carrots, peas, stock, ham, paprika and bay leaves to the pan, and bring to the boil.
- Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally and add water if it is becoming too thick.
- If you are going to add potatoes, do so at this point, and simmer for another 30 minutes.
- Remove the ham bone from the pan and set it aside to cool. Pull any meat off the bone, shred it and return it to the pan.
- Season with salt and pepper if required, and heat to a simmer before serving.
If you want to freeze this soup, don’t add any potato. If you’d like a smoother soup, you can blend it with a soup wand before adding the shredded ham.
I had two more large beetroot left, so I made this soup, adapted slightly from Madhur Jaffrey’s Eastern Vegetarian Cooking, which I bought in 1983s. The link is to a subsequent edition.
- 2 large beetroot, peeled and diced
- 500ml water
- 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
- 4 whole cloves
- 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon, or a 2cm stick of cinnamon
- 1 tin of chopped tomatoes
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 1 level tsp ground black pepper
- Sour cream or double cream
- Cook the chopped beetroot in the water. Simmer for about an hour, to make sure the beetroot is really soft.
- Drain the beetroot, and make the liquid up to 450ml if necessary.
- Add the beetroot back to the liquor, along with the tin of chopped tomatoes and use the soup wand to liquidise
- In a saucepan, fry the spices in butter, and then add the beetroot and tomatoes, and bring to a simmer.
- Add salt and pepper to taste.
- Strain the soup through a coarse sieve to remove the whole spices, and then add the cream, and reheat.
Initially, I wasn’t sure about this soup. It looks odd, but then I caught myself having extra portions. It is even better after being frozen, it seems to enhance the walnut flavour. It is worth spending some time reducing the walnuts to a paste before adding.
- 1 cauliflower
- 1 onion
- 2 bayleaves
- a pinch of paprika
- salt and pepper
- 450ml stock
- 450ml skimmed milk
- 50g walnut pieces
- Chop the onion finely and cook slowly in butter until soft and beginning to brown.
- Chop the cauliflower into florets and boil in the stock with 2 bayleaves until tender, at least 10 minutes.
- Remove the bayleaves, add a pinch of paprika, salt and pepper, and puree the cauliflower and stock until smooth. (I used a soup wand)
- Grind the walnuts and pound to a fine paste in a pestle and mortar.
- Add the cooked onions, ground walnuts and skimmed milk to the cauliflower base, and puree again.
- Strain through a coarse sieve to remove any lumps.
- Bring the mixture back to a simmer for two minutes before serving.
I have lots of turnips still standing in the garden, the last of the winter
vegetables. They are fantastic things, yellow and spicy and fresh after a long
winter. My only gripe about turnips is finding ways to cook them. Usually I
mash them with potatoes, or, more recently, I have been dicing them and
roasting them for 20 minutes in olive oil and pepper. Tonight I discovered why
I had found so little in the way of recipes in my books and on the web: the
English think they are swedes, and the French and the Americans seem to think
they are called Rutabagas. Anyway, no matter what they are called, tonight I
tried out this soup. It is from Lindsey Bareham’s incomparable recipe book, ‘A Celebration of Soup’.
- 75g organic butter
- 2-3 shallots, finely chopped,
- A bunch of parsley
- 450g diced turnip (about one large, or 2 small), home grown
- salt and pepper
- 1.1 litres of rich stock (I used some game stock, but ‘Marigold’ stock is fine
- A pinch of saffron, if available (optional)
- 100ml double cream
- Heat the butter in a large pan, and soften the shallots in the butter for about five minutes
- Add the parsley stalks (or dried herbs, if fresh parsley is scarce) and the turnip along with a pinch of salt. Stir, and make sure everything gets well coated in butter.
- Cover the pan and simmer on low for about fifteen minutes.
- At this stage, the turnip is tender and sweet and could be served as a vegetable dish in its own right.
- For to make the soup, add the stock and saffron, bring to the boil, and simmer for 30 minutes
- Blend the soup with a soup wand, and reheat.
- To serve, whisk the cream with the finely chopped parsley, and swirl into the soup.
I served it with brown toast. However, you could make croutons, and the book
suggests polenta chips: small slivers of cooked polenta, coated in oil and
grilled to create a crunchy exterior. Very good indeed.
This is a very easy recipe, can’t recall where it is from. I usually have these ingredients in the house, so I can usually make this.
- 1 can butter beans
- 1 can tomatoes
- 1 1/2 pints of stock
- 1 bayleaf
- 2 onions, chopped
- olive oil or butter
- salt and pepper
- 1 tsp honey or sugar
- chopped parsley to serve
- Gently cook the onions in the olive oil until well cooked, very soft.
- Add the beans, stock, tomatoes, bayleaf and then simmer the soup for half an hour
- Season to taste, with the salt, pepper, honey.
Serve with brown toast and garnished with chopped parsley